Some European powers’ “no wine, no dine” policies have made headlines once more — this time over the cancellation of a formal meal gathering the French and Iranian presidents at the Elysée Palace. France’s refusal to provide the Iranian delegation with a halal meal, of which alcohol abstention is an inseparable part, is not unprecedented. Former Iranian President Mohammad Khatami’s state banquet with King Juan Carlos of Spain in 2002 was nixed over Spanish disagreement with a wine-free meal.

The problem stems from how wine is a defining symbol for both cultures: While champagne is a symbol of French culture and the country is the world’s biggest producer of wine by value, abstention from alcohol is considered one of the key defining markers of Muslim identity — particularly in the 21st century. This symbolism has been a central part of Iran’s campaign to promote its image as a country ruled by an Islamic government. Within its borders, however, the meaning of drinking is undergoing a metamorphosis.

The prohibition of alcohol has been a powerful symbol of post-revolutionary Iran. It even played a significant role before the Islamic Revolution, when it was used to mobilize people against the Shah of Iran. One of the indicators of the shah’s anti-Islamic policies, late Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini argued, was that “there were more wine bars than book stores.” Indeed, bars, pubs and cinemas were among the main targets of riots before the Islamic Revolution, resulting in the destruction of many such venues. After the revolution, alcohol was prohibited as expected and laws passed to punish those who engaged in drinking. However, 36 years after the revolution, alcohol consumption is becoming a normal part of everyday life for more and more Iranians.

These days, 60-80 million liters (16-21 million gallons) of alcoholic beverages are smuggled into the country every year, with much more estimated to be produced illegally in homes and illicit breweries inside Iran. Though drinking, selling and importing alcohol is illegal, one can find alcoholic beverages within an average of 30 minutes in major Iranian cities. To gain an idea of the extent of alcohol consumption, the former head of Iranian police announced in July that there are an estimated 130,000-200,000 alcoholics in Iran. As a result, Iran this summer declared plans to license 150 alcoholic rehabilitation clinics in the near future.