The Istanbul Archaeological Museums return, piece by piece

Topkapi Palace, the former residence of the Ottoman sultans, is not only the most popular museum in Istanbul but in all of Turkey. In 2018, slightly more than 3 million people visited it. Meanwhile, next door in the former outer gardens of the palace, the Istanbul Archaeological Museums, a complex of three different buildings, attracted only one-tenth that number last year, with 378,675 visitors.

How is it that one of the first and richest archaeological collections in the world — established in 1869 and with objects spanning consequential millennia and cultured civilizations from Anatolia — could attract only a fraction of the attention tourists lavish on Topkapi, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque? Three reasons come readily to mind.

First, Istanbul is generally perceived and marketed as an Oriental or exotic destination, so sightseers have tended to focus on mosques and minarets along with bazaars and Bosphorus cruises, often overlooking its Roman and Byzantine pasts unearthed by archaeologists. Second, the museums themselves have been rather “visitor unfriendly.” It could be difficult to navigate due to an old-fashioned approach to museum-going and clumsily organized spaces. The colors have faded in overstuffed and dimly lit exhibition rooms, some taking on shades of gray. Third, the most obvious reason, the museums have been partially closed since 2012 while they undergo a major overhaul and renovation.

Although part of the archaeological museums remains inaccessible, the first phase of a master plan has been completed after five years, with six halls reopened in the fall that showcase a world-class, shining and engaging institution finally worthy of the 21st century. Visitors are back, and they appear to be greatly enjoying the new experience.