AL-Monitor Istanbul: Identity, belonging and the search for home
We take a thematic turn in this week’s newsletter, delving into migration, belonging and the idea of feeling at home.

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From an exhibition redefining the concept of home to a restaurant named after migration, there’s plenty to unpack as Istanbul continues to inspire.
Leading the week: Home Alone
Home is where the tufting needle is. Ozlem Yenigul’s debut solo exhibition, “The Desire to Feel At Home Everywhere,” running from Jan. 23 to March 2 at the Anna Laudel Istanbul gallery, transforms the mundane into the profound.
With a flair for turning everyday objects into existential musings, Yenigul weaves a tactile exploration of identity, memory and belonging. The centerpiece — a wall-sized, tufted textile (main photo) — depicts a cozy living room scene: two armchairs, a table, a vase and a framed picture, all embraced by verdant greenery.
For Yenigul, a true sense of home stems from familiar objects, time spent within the space and, above all, a sense of privacy. Her integration of female figures into the textile pieces underscores the connection between womanhood and the home — sometimes delightful, occasionally suffocating.
Running alongside Yenigul’s show at Anna Laudel is “Pressure Point,” a group exhibition celebrating the enduring art of printmaking. Featuring 11 artists, the exhibition highlights the labor-intensive beauty of this traditional medium in a hyper-digital world.
From Maria Chillon’s engravings on delicate Japanese washi paper to Serife Sen Akkas’s intricate woodblock prints, "Pressure Point" embraces the imperfections and experimentation inherent in the craft.
Word on the street: Muutto
The traditional Turkish “pide” gets a green twist at Muutto. (Muutto Facebook)
Perched on Galataport's promenade, Muutto Anatolian Tapas Bar serves up Anatolian flavors with a side of waterfront charm.
The name "Muutto," Finnish for "migration," mirrors the journey of its chef and the Anatolian specialties reimagined as shareable “tapas” perfect for any time of day.
The culinary mastermind behind this venture, Umut Karakus, was born in eastern Turkey in a small village in Agri as the third of eight children. At 12, he moved to Istanbul, harboring dreams of becoming a composer.
While his musical aspirations didn’t materialize, his culinary talents, which he inherited from his grandmother and mother, flourished, he told me. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, Umut honed his skills in London’s Michelin-starred kitchens before returning to Istanbul and starting his own restaurants.
Kick off your meal with the five appetizers plate, a rotating selection of seasonal mezes that include eggplant in yogurt and beetroot-infused delights.
The artichoke salad offers a refreshing tribute to local produce, while seafood enthusiasts will relish the sea bass with mustard, which delivers a tangy, flavorful punch.
Istanbul diary
“Gulsum,” inkjet print by Nuri Bilge Ceylan (Dirimart)
- Acclaimed Turkish director Nuri Bilge Ceylan, winner of the Palme d'Or for "Winter Sleep,” unveils his lesser-known artistic side with “On the Road,” his third solo photography exhibition at Dirimart Dolapdere on display through Feb. 23.
- Pianist Fazil Say and violin virtuoso Patricia Kopatchinskaja share the stage at Zorlu PSM on March 14. Get your tickets here.
- It’s your last chance to catch Savas Cevik’s reimagined calligraphy with cubist twists at Tophane-i Amire. It ends Jan. 27.
- With Trump’s election sparking a crypto frenzy, Catstanbul 2025 gathers the Jupiverse community at Divan Kurucesme on Jan. 25-26. Expect product launches, workshops and a spectacular artistic burning ceremony. The program and registration are here.
Book of the week: "Water Project"
Amid global challenges like devastating fires and worsening water scarcity, “Water Project: Leto Joins the Springs” offers a timely and elegant call to action.
Part conservation plea, part visual delight, this coffee-table book by American artist Margaret Ross Tolbert combines art and environmental insight to spotlight Turkey’s water heritage.
Enriched by essays, artistic maps and travel notes from Turkish and international contributors, the book traces water’s profound role in human history.
Inspired by Turkey’s water rituals, the blues of Seljuk tiles and the Basilica Cistern’s cavernous beauty, Tolbert poignantly declares: “We are water. Let’s reclaim it.”
Istanbul gaze
This oil-on-canvas painting draws from the many photographs capturing the elite Bogazici University faculty’s ongoing stand-ins against the government-appointed rector since 2021. Created by Timur Celik, a Berlin-based artist who passed away on Jan. 16, 2025, the work is a striking testament to collective resistance.
Celik devoted his career to chronicling Turkey’s political and social struggles through hyperrealist portraits and evocative figurative works. His portraits of opposition figures such as jailed philanthropist Osman Kavala and Kurdish politician Selahattin Demirtas provide a powerful visual narrative.
Another standout is his “Erdogan” series, which depicts the Turkish president wielding power in diverse contexts.
By the numbers
- According to official statistics, 500,309 Syrians under temporary protection live in Istanbul. Istanbul’s media-savvy mayor, Ekrem Imamoglu, estimates the number is closer to 2 million.
- A December 2024 survey by the Istanbul Planning Agency found that 47.8% of participants believe only a small number of Syrians will return to their home country, while 9.4% believe none will. Meanwhile, 4.3% of those surveyed believe all Syrians will return, 17.7% think the majority will and 20.7% expect about half to return.