The numerous military checkpoints, queues of trucks coming from Beirut and tons of presidential candidate posters hung in the streets are currently dominating the Syrian capital.
The first thing that draws the attention of people visiting Damascus from the Lebanese capital through the al-Masnaa border crossing is the dense traffic between the two countries. Syrians are moving in both directions, and the Lebanese gather at the gates where travel documents between the “two brotherly countries” are inspected.
There are endless big buses full of Shiite pilgrims. Asking them about their destination gets a double surprise. Some of them are going to visit the Shrine of Zeinab near Damascus, in an area that has remained for two odd years an axis of heavy fighting until the sacred Shiite site finally became safe in the custody of the pro-regime forces following the developments in the Ghouta area. Others will cross the entire Syrian territory to visit the Shiite holy places in Iraq. These two directions are supposedly fraught with danger, but the Lebanese Shiite pilgrims are reassured by authorities, and the Syrians crossing the border are keen to confirm. They answer with confidence: There is no risk at all. Syria is open to the peaceful movement of people.
Once you cross the border, a series of military checkpoints begin. At least nine checkpoints along the 40-kilometer (25-mile) road between the crossing and Damascus are set up to maintain security. They thoroughly inspect all the vehicles and passengers. In the long queues, some Syrians explain that remaining on high alert is a necessary duty. Despite the Syrian army’s control over the region, it is still exposed to all kinds of risks and intrusions as it is a few hundred meters away from insurgent sites. Here, you cross the center of Zabadani, where thousands of armed men await reconciliation efforts between them and the regime.
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