A trip through Iran's Sunni heartland
A journey into Iran's northwest cities of Bukan, Mahabad and Saqqez indicates that while Iranian Sunnis face discrimination, it is rooted in politics, not religion.
How do Iranian Sunnis survive in a Shiite-dominated landscape? This is a common question among people who follow Iranian affairs, given reports suggesting that Sunnis suffer from religious discrimination nationwide, such as not being allowed to build mosques in major cities or to practice their religious rituals. Iran's Sunnis encompass a range of ethnic minorities, from Arabs to Kurds to Turkmens. In August, I visited Sunni Kurdish cities in northwest Iran, attending a wedding in Bukan and then traveling to neighboring Mahabad and Saqqez to see how Iranian Sunni Kurds live. It was my first time in the area, which extends over the large provinces of Kurdistan and West Azerbaijan.
The route to Bukan was mountainous. The farther we drove, the more mountains we encountered. You got the feeling that all the country’s secrets lie hidden behind the last mountain, but that you would never get there. We arrived in Bukan quite late, but not too late for the traditional hana bandan, a pre-wedding ritual that involves adorning the bride with henna.
People were gathering in the street outside the home of the bride's family. They were singing, dancing and preparing for the arrival of the groom. The men wore traditional Kurdish attire, while the women, some without scarves, put the finishing touches on the table where the bride and groom would sit. Sisters and friends of the bride wore yellow and black outfits, helping the bride into her traditional red dress. The moment the groom arrived, the street turned into a big party as an older man broke into song accompanied by two younger men, one playing a flute and another beating the tonbak, a drum typically used at weddings.
Upon first impression, it seemed that the people of Bukan were able to hold their weddings freely and publicly without interference. Luqman, a young student from Bukan who lives in Tehran, told Al-Monitor that such celebrations are respected by the authorities. “Every time there’s a wedding or celebration, we come to our town," he said. "They respect our traditions — as you can see, nothing is banned. The next day the wedding will be held in a very big hall in the city. People will flock there and the celebration will have a more modern look, different from the one you saw today.”
